Monday 3 October - Lydgate - Ely

From high moors to low lands. I started with grey skies close to Saddleworth Moor but as soon as I crossed the Pennines, the skies cleared and the sun came out. The first part of the journey was across the moors, close to Last of the Summer Wine country. Houses look cheery and well looked after, gardens and hanging baskets filled with flowers. But the world of business looks less positive. There are still mills but most seem to unused and overgrown with ivy. The hills are steep and towns and villages are strung out along valleys. Parts of the motorways feel like high wire acts as you drive from top to top with mills and houses far below. Not great for the vertiginous but spectacular views, although the traffic is moving too fast to take it all in.

I wanted to visit the new Hepworth Gallery in Wakefield but when I get there, discover that it's not open on Monday. It's part of a bigger re-development of the waterfront and seems to be a very nice gallery. There are lots of signs about 'a place for inspiration' and 'a place for enjoyment' but these banners seem rather at odds with the razor wire that tops every wall.

I'm heading south towards Ely and realise that I forgot to pack shoes to go with tomorrow's work wear and so decide that Grantham will probably have nice shops where I can buy proper shoes (only have boots and trainers with me). Grantham is the home town of Margaret Thatcher and I expect it to be a solid and bustling town. It has lots of rather lovely Georgian buildings, solid and redolent of economic power. But despite the solid architecture at least one in three shops is empty. It seems at odds with its Thatcherite roots, but maybe it is all too appropriate that it has been hits so very hard by the economic downturn. There used to be an M&S but it too has closed. There seem to be few of the national chain stores here and I'm realising that this is a sign of economic hardship.

I head off in search of the loos and find them in Morrison's. But I'm shocked to find that they have the ultraviolet lights that stop intravenous drug users finding a vein. I think it's the first time that I've found them in England. And it adds to a sense of dislocation of my expectation of Thatcherite values. But perhaps these are the unintended consequences of Thatcherism. Certainly illegal drugs seem to be the embodiment of the free market principles.

But for now I have new shoes, am in Ely and trying to get ready for a day of meetings tomorrow